Lazy Days

If it seems like it's been a while since my last post, well you're right. We've taken advantage of the last ten days to just relax and chill out. Not that our six months on the road has been such a chore, but we originally planned our last month in Bali to be an opportunity to take it easy. And I intend to fully execute my plan.

There have been quite few beach days, and low tide in the Sanur lagoon usually means plenty of local Balinese fisherman casting their rods in while we frolic on the shore. It makes for a picturesque view, but you just have to be a bit careful not to become the catch of the day while swimming.

And there hasn't been much interest from Annie and Owen to participate in our usual day trips, as they have become fast friends with the three daughters of the lady from whom we are renting the cottage. Everyday is a chance to play with kids their own ages, and they've had plenty of sleepovers during our stay. They're in heaven, so we want to let them enjoy it while it lasts.

But that doesn't mean we've been completely idle. We've enjoyed breakfast overlooking the beautiful Gunung Agung.

And made a trip to a local coffee plantation to learn a bit about how my morning cup of heaven gets made.

Unfortunately, this also means that we see first-hand how a trendy new coffee fad can get a bit out of hand. Kopi Luwak is something you might have heard of, and refers to the seeds of coffee berries which have been eaten and defecated (yup, pooped) by the wild civet cat. There are supposed benefits of the resulting beans, and over the past several years this type of coffee has been growing in popularity in the west, and prices have risen accordingly. As expected, the traditional method of collecting the beans in the droppings of wild cats has not allowed for sufficient yields to meet demand, and has given way to intensive farming methods in which civets in huge cage complexes are force fed the the coffee berries. It is sad, and it's why I have refused to consume any of it.

But we did sample other wonderful organic coffee and teas at this plantation. Just not the Cat-poop-cino.

We also took advantage of Bali's geology to go on a cycling day trip through the hills of the lush countryside. To be more specific, it was down the hills. We were delivered to the mountains of central Bali and then guided down the slopes. It was one of those days where brakes were more important than gears.

Arachnophobes beware. There are plenty of chicken farms in the countryside. Chicken farms means lots of flies and other insects, which in turn attracts these giant spiders. This was one of the hardest parts of the journey for poor Annie, who can't stand them.

But I guess we all need to conquer our fears!

The kids climbed through the rice paddies for a great photo.

But they had to sneak by this guy first.

Time to high-five the local school kids, who always have the biggest grins on their faces. One thing the Balinese love to do is smile....

....even during funerals. We passed by a few of them on this day. As it turns out, Balinese choose certain auspicious days one which to hold event such as funerals, marriages and cremations. Today seemed set aside for cremations.

Cremations can be very expensive, and some Balinese save for several years after the death of a loved one before they can afford the cremation ceremony. Bones are exhumed once they are ready for the big day, and are then burned over large funeral pyres. For those with less means, they may have to share with other families. But it is definitely not a depressing event, and might compare with a wake in terms of the celebratory atmosphere.

And our bike trip ended at the family home of the tour guide and organizers for lunch - this ended up being our best meal on Bali. Some of the best local cuisine you can imagine.

We've also made it to some of the more touristy destinations. There's nothing wrong with them, but they have certainly lost their charm over the years. We have a very old Lonely Planet guidebook (from the early 1990s) in our cottage, and it's fun to compare the old travel literature with the current reality. We made it out to Jimbaran, famous for seafood and sunsets. It's now a collection of uninspiring restaurants serving overpriced food. Can't comment on the sunset because we left shortly after we arrived.

But we did manage to see a group of Chinese vacationers conquering the treacherous knee-high waters of the bay in their life jackets. I guess it's better to be safe than sorry, but I can assure you that the gentle waves lapping against the shoreline posed no greater threat than what you would find in your bathtub. But it's entertainment for me.

And just so we could feel a bit posh, we invaded the Sofitel Hotel at Nusa Dua for their Sunday brunch. For $40 a head (kids under 12 are free), you can enjoy their amazing buffet lunch and use their pool all day.

I think the seafood was the best part of this meal - haven't had any oysters on the trip so far, so I definitely made up for lost opportunities.

And since many of the tropical destinations we have visited during the past six months have had questionable refrigeration facilities, it comes as no surprise that we haven't had much sushi and sashimi either. Until today, that is.

I think the Sofitel will definitely be losing money on me today.

After the meal it was time for the riff raff to invade the pool, probably much to the annoyance of the stuffy French vacationers.

But then the DJ arrived for the pool party so the dance music finally drowned out the sound of my screaming kids. 

So I think this might be my last post of the trip, although I may put a brief summary together once we're home. Speaking of which, our plane leaves in just over 36 hours, so reality is setting in. Tomorrow will be a beach day and our last chance for a five dollar massage. See ya soon!!