An Order of Naxos, Please

No Greek island experience is complete without the ferry journey - and that usually means an early morning departure from the port of Piraeus. 

I mistakenly thought that it would be a time consuming and difficult trip from Athens to Piraeus, but it turns out the metro zips you there in about 30 minutes - but that still meant leaving the hotel at 6:00 am. 

By 7:25 we were comfortably set up on board the Delos, one of Blue Star Ferries largest boats. It departed exactly on time, and would shuttle us across the azure waters of the Aegean Sea to Naxos in just over 5 hours.

It was smooth sailing all the way and we were excited to disembark - not sure exactly what sight would greet us. The island of Naxos is not as visually spectacular as Santorini, but we had chosen it due to its quiet, laid back, and authentic feel.

First impression was pretty good - Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades Islands, and is one of the few islands which is self-sufficient, with enough arable land and water to have a healthy agricultural base. Tourism is definitely critical to the economy, but not to the extent of other islands such as Mykonos or Santorini.

We were met at the harbour by Georgia and Petros, the owners of Oniro Studios. They drove through the maze-like streets of Hora, the main city, and it was just like you would imagine a Greek island town should be - narrow lanes and whitewashed buildings everywhere you turn. Perfect.

After our nice but cramped room in Athens, it was a relief to have some more space. The apartment is still small, but definitely large enough to feel like home for the next week. We plan to be out and about during most of our visit, anyway.

But before we start exploring the Old Town, we need fuel. And for us that means the Gyro. In less than a week in Greece we have learned what the difference is between Gyro (pieces of meat cut from a larger stack), Souvlaki (large cubes of grilled meat), and Kebab (ground meat packed together and grilled). They all taste great but we have settled on the Gyro. And if you want to know how to pronounce it properly, just ask Shirley - she insists she knows exactly how to say it. Judging from the confused (and sometimes pained) expression on the faces of the vendors, I'm not sure if that is true. 

The warren of tiny alleys which snake through the old Castro district in town are delightful. Around every corner is a postcard view and the old town is so small that you cannot get lost.

Sometimes the best time to wander is in the afternoon - it seems the Greeks subscribe to the 'siesta' approach, and most stores simply shut down for a few hours and people go back to their homes to rest. This means the streets are nearly deserted.

Lost travellers, deserted streets and black cats - could make for a Twilight Zone episode?

Sigh. I could look at that view forever.

These ancient ruins (the rocks, not us) are what remains of the Temple of Apollo just at the harbour of Naxos Town.

Need any sacrifices?

And of course, this wouldn't be Greece unless there was that beautiful water to jump into. Looks warm and inviting, doesn't it?

It's not. Well at least not yet. It's kind of chilly, actually. Early May is the beginning of the tourist season in Greece, but the water doesn't really warm up until July. But we're Canadian, so no problem.

Just give me the damn towel, I'm freezing!!

This is about the most 'old time' corner store I've ever seen. You get hit with a waft of every great Greek smell as you enter - cheese, olives, spices, mixed with the wool clothing and sweat of the old man sitting behind the counter.

Whoa, Boltwood has gone all Euro on us - not sure the Institute of Chartered Accountants would approve of those colours!

Do you have any tables available? As I said, it's early in the tourist season.

Meet George. He's Shirley's Gyro boyfriend. She goes there every day and buys food for the kids. Yeah, sure - for the kids. I know they're scheming to throw me off a cliff somewhere. Look at his smile. George is up to no good, I tell you.

But in George's defense, he makes some kick-ass Gyros.