Maldives Part One - Getting There is Half the Fun

We finally managed to get connected – stay tuned for several updates here from the Maldives. Here is Part One.

The disappointment of saying farewell to a country like Sri Lanka is easier to endure since we have eager anticipation for our next stop – the Maldives. We said our goodbyes to the lovely beach town of Mirissa and our simple but comfortable (except for those hot and muggy non-A/C  nights) Ancient Tree Guesthouse.

 Pushpa and her family certainly made us feel welcome. 

Rather than trying to endure a long distance local bus ride, which can be hot, crowded and challenging with luggage, we opted for a taxi for the two-hour drive to Colombo’s airport. It cost about 15 times as much, but it allowed us to get there quickly and in the comfort of air conditioning. It also gave us a chance to try out Sri Lanka’s fancy new (and only) freeway. The expressway was eerily calm - seems like the toll is a bit expensive for most Sri Lankans, and since the freeway bypasses all of the main towns along the coast, there is no reason for the buses to use it either. Interesting planning. 

It was time to board our 90 minute flight to Male.... 

.....Probably one of the smallest capital cities in the world. 

Not the largest international airport, but I’m just thrilled to be here. Given its stunning beaches, coral reefs, and world famous snorkeling and scuba diving, the Maldives is a place I have always dreamed about visiting, but it has always seemed financially out of reach. For years the Maldivian government has actively promoted only high-end island resorts and luxury tours, maximizing the economic impact of tourism and keeping this conservative Muslim country blissfully free of the grunge and ‘immorality’ of the young and partying backpacker scene. But recent years have seen a growth in guesthouses run by local Maldivians on the inhabited atolls scattered throughout this island nation – they tend to be more affordable and offer a far more interesting and authentic experience. But visitors must dress conservatively and alcohol is strictly prohibited. That alone will keep most of the backpacker crowds away!

But we're thrilled to be here. Our ferry to our island of Keyodhoo didn’t leave until the following morning so we have to take a small ferry from the airport (which is on it's very own separate island) and then overnight in Male, the capital. 

This is one of the most unique cities you could imagine - it’s just a tiny island bulging with apartments and lowrises. There are about 100,000 people in the city but you can (and I did) walk across the island in less than 30 minutes. It was fun to stroll around and just people-watch. Since it is a Muslim country, many of the local Maldivians out on the street were men, and most of the women we did see were wearing headscarves, but overall the vibe seemed pretty laid back. But, honestly, I think I would go mental if I had to live here – it gave me a feeling akin to cabin fever. You can’t go anywhere, and there don’t seem to be things which most normal cities would have (and need) – parks, city squares, boulevards – in other words, space. 

But soon it was time to leave Male for the Vaavu Atoll, a six hour ferry ride to the south. 

This boat is a lifeline for Maldivians living in the southern atolls, so the ferry was inevitably packed with all sorts of supplies – food, drink, TVs, air conditioners, and the Boltwoods. 

Now that’s what I call a squat toilet! 

It wasn’t long before we were treated to the scenery which put the Maldives on the travel map.

 “Are we staying there, Daddy?” “Uh, no. Sorry kids, maybe next time” 

“Uh, no. Sorry Shirley, maybe next time” 

“Are we there yet, Daddy?”

“Has it been six hours, yet? Didn’t think so. Drink some water.” 

Wow. 

Nothing like some food to pick up our sprits – we were starting to fade. 

And the second part of the journey was on a smaller ferry with poor ventilation. Shirley was dying from the heat – I can only imagine what these other ladies beside her were enduring. 

I think I could sail away in one of those. 

No vehicles on most of the smaller islands in the atolls of the Maldives. It gives new meaning to u-haul. 

And off he goes. Nice. These are the moments I will remember.

Finally arrived at our little island of Keyodhoo (Google Map it if you are interested). 

We were greeted by a very warm and welcoming gang from the Jupiter Sunrise Lodge. 

There’s always a little suspense when you finally check into a room – you hope it looks like the pictures online and that there are no disappointing surprises. This was perfect – cool, clean, and the perfect place to spend the next six days.